Dakar, Senegal

Our second port in West Africa was different from the first in Banjul, The Gambia, in several ways. First, we chose to take a ship-sponsored tour, which we seldom do, and it turned out to be an excellent idea. Independent tours in smaller groups mean that the guide is able to give us more information and we do not have to wait for so others who are late getting back to the bus. On the other hand, there is a sense of security being on the buses with other passengers. We had been warned about keeping alert, dressing to avoid attention, moving about in groups, and leaving our credit cards on the ship so security was on my mind.

The tour we chose was called Dakar Highlights and included views of the modern city as well as the early twentieth century buildings, the Presidential Palace with its Spahi guards wearing red and blue uniforms, the train station. We saw a demonstration of sand painting, the Medina (Old Town) and, of course, the obligatory market. Everywhere we go we end up where the locals sell their wares to the tourists.

The vendors are trying to eke out a living in very poor economic conditions so it is understandable that they are persistent in their efforts to make a sale. It can be a clash of cultures as we want to be left alone to look and choose what we want to purchase and they want to make every sale they possibly can.  Today, the vendors were among the most aggressive we have encountered. They tried to lure us into their stalls and block the way out, they were annoyingly persistent in following us, and they touched us. One vendor grabbed my shoulder with such a firm grip that my adrenaline shot up and I yelled at him “Don’t touch me!” He was very apologetic and backed off and pointed to where our guide was sitting to reassure me that I was safe and had nothing to worry about. I am sure that I was safe there or I would not have stayed, but overall, I would have bought more if I had been closer to the comfort zone of my own shopping culture. And as I write this, it sounds familiar to me and I think I wrote something similar in a different port on a different trip.

The African Renaissance Monument, a 160-foot tall statue, is the source of controversy for the Senegalese. It is a dramatic, hill-top celebration of the African family. ( I will try to upload photos in the Canary Islands.) It was built at the cost of 85 billion Senegal-CFA francs. Exchange rate today: $1 US is equal to 490 francs. The controversy is about the expenditure of that amount of money in a country with so many people who do not have enough food to eat.